Frozen Treasures

As snow carpets the U.P., its most popular destinations continue to shine
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At stunning Tahquamenon Falls near Paradise, visitors can still hear the roar of the falls during the winter months, says Eric Cowing, of the Michigan Department of Natural Resources. // Photo courtesy of Chanakya Lokam/UP Travel

Every year, thousands of visitors flock to the Upper Peninsula’s wilderness expanses in search of peaceful landscapes, natural wonders, and historic charm. Many of the region’s warm-weather tourist hotspots also become cool attractions worth a winter visit.

Eben Ice Caves
Deerton

The 4,000-acre Rock River Canyon Wilderness, part of the Hiawatha National Forest, is home to the famed Eben Ice Caves. Massive walls of jagged stalactite icicles form when water seeps through the cliff’s cracks, freezing into unique and sometimes colorful formations.

Visitors are strongly encouraged to wear cleats or crampons to provide much-needed traction on the often icy and slippery route. After parking along Frey Road or in the small, plowed lot nearest the trailhead, visitors hike nearly 2 miles, round trip, to explore the ice caves.

The first quarter mile is flat, crossing through a private farm field, but the remaining stretch can be a bit treacherous with some steep areas that pass alongside deep ravines. The interior of the caves is hard-packed snow and ice, and at times crowded as visitors immerse themselves in the frozen scenery.

“The ice formations in our area aren’t only beautiful, they’re unique,” says Katherine Reynolds, of the Alger County Chamber of Commerce. She also advises that people be flexible with their travel plans, as quickly changing weather conditions can impact access or the quality of the ice formations.

The Eben Ice Caves are located between Marquette and Munising. Access is free, and leashed dogs are allowed. There are portable restrooms in the parking area, alongside a concession stand selling hot chocolate and snacks.

Tahquamenon Falls
Paradise

Approximately 50,000 gallons of water rush over the 200-foot-wide crest every second, cascading 48 feet below the Upper Tahquamenon Falls — even in winter. These falls rarely freeze entirely, although the smaller Lower Falls are typically iced over by January.

“A thick blanket of snow seems to quiet the woods, but you can still hear the roar of the falls as you get near,” notes Eric Cowing, Eastern U.P. parks & recreation district supervisor for the Michigan Department of Natural Resources. “You may catch a glimpse of colorful ice that forms on the walls near the falls, as well.”

Tahquamenon Falls State Park features 35 miles of trails for cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and snowmobiling, with an average annual snowfall of 106 inches. The park offers free snowshoe rental and lantern-lit trail events on Saturday evenings in February.

The Upper Falls parking lot is plowed, and the Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub reopens in mid-December. Access to the Lower Falls requires a hike of about a mile each way, as the lot is blocked off for the winter.

Fayette Historic State Park
Garden Peninsula

The former Jackson Iron Co. town, located beneath the towering limestone cliffs along the southeastern shore of Big Bay de Noc, was once home to about 500 residents. The iron operations were short-lived, and by 1891 the area was a ghost town. In 1959, the remains became the 711-acre Fayette Historic State Park.

“While Fayette is picturesque in the summer, nothing compares to a visit in the winter when you’re surrounded by the quiet solitude of the abandoned structures and can take in the historical landscape,” says U.P. native and Manistee resident Frank Post.

Three-and-a-half miles of scenic trails traverse through hardwood forests and along bluffs that are ideal for hiking, snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing. The nearby Furnace Hill Lodge is a fully furnished rustic abode, nestled in the woods directly off the entrance road and within walking distance of the historic townsite. It’s available for year-round rental, with overnight accommodations for 10.

Come winter, icy blue-green colors in the water and a frosty white-and-silver backdrop make up the palette of beautiful Kitch-iti-kipi at Palms Book State Park in Manistique. // Photo courtesy of Colin Hudson/UP Travel

Kitch-iti-kipi at Palms Book State Park
Manistique

One of Michigan’s most enchanting natural sites is Kitch-iti-kipi, whose name means “big cold spring” in Ojibwe, which you’ll find inside Palms Book State Park. A self-operated observation raft floats over the state’s largest natural freshwater spring, which stretches 200 feet in diameter and encompasses a half-acre.

Every day, crystal-clear waters vigorously emit more than 10,000 gallons of water per minute from crevices in the limestone 40 feet below the surface. At a constant 45 degrees Fahrenheit, Kitch-iti-kipi rarely freezes, adding to its mystical allure.

Palms Book State Park is located at the northern end of M-149, about 15 minutes north of U.S. 2, in Thompson Township (Schoolcraft County). The parking lot is cleared in the winter and is a stone’s throw from the spring.

Benny the Beard Fisher
Germfask

Lounging along the banks of the Manistique River, Benny the Beard Fisher is the creation of Danish artist Thomas Dambo. At 30 feet long and 14 feet tall, this wooden troll sits inside the Northland Outfitters campground and is accessible to the public year-round. Unveiled in August 2023, Benny is the only such sculpture in Michigan, although there are more than 100 worldwide.

“Benny is glorious in all seasons, but there’s extra magic seeing him with a blanket of snow,” says Durea Brady, who owns the park with her husband, Levi. “This time of year, the trumpeter swans from the Seney Wildlife make their way from the frozen ponds of the refuge to the flowing river water, so Benny is surrounded by all his wildlife friends.”

Access to Benny is from a small lot on M-77 just north of Germfask, followed by a short boardwalk and trail to the river’s edge. Parking is $10 per vehicle
(or groups of six people).


Plan it!

A Michigan Recreation Passport is required for entrance to the state parks.

Upper Peninsula Travel & Recreation Association
uptravel.com

Michigan State Parks
michigan.gov/stateparks


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