Tunnels of Trees

Fall’s bloom starts with a touch of color, and always in the Upper Peninsula. First frosts, cooler temperatures, and longer nights trigger the transformation. From the Keweenaw region east, then south across the upper and lower peninsulas, Michigan’s fall color show flows like paint splashed on a canvas, blending vibrant strokes of every shade into a brilliant spectacle unlike anywhere else.

With more than half of the state covered in forest, and with its complementary waterways, Michigan consistently ranks near the top when it comes to places in the country to experience the majesty of fall’s colors. One of the best ways to watch the show progress from north to south is by driving along the following marvelous scenic highways.

M-26/U.S. 41
Houghton to Copper Harbor

One of the state’s two “original” Tunnels of Trees, the Copper Country Trail National Byway is a favorite drive. It captures the beauty of Michigan in fall, from leaves to lakes, and offers a look at the state’s history; the copper mining industry here is credited with producing the wire that electrified America and helped win two world wars.

Easy side trips include following the road up Brockway Mountain Drive to Copper Harbor, where you can stop for lunch at a local favorite such as The Mariner North or the Harbor Haus, and cruising along the spectacular Lake Superior waterfront on M-26 between Copper Harbor and Eagle River. Then, enjoy a beverage at Houghton’s Keweenaw Brewing Co.

Other stops might include savoring the treats made by monks at The Jampot bakery, near Jacob’s Falls; looking for beach agates; waterfall-viewing; and, in mid- to late October, booking a charter to catch some Lake Superior splake, a hybrid trout.

When it comes to lodging, you can stay at The Sunset House, near Eagle River, which is available through rentmichigancabins.com. Other options include booking a cabin at the Keweenaw Mountain Lodge or a lakeside room at Fitzgerald’s Hotel & Restaurant in Eagle River. Farther south, Baraga Lakeside Inn is a good choice.

Combine your adventures with tours at Keweenaw National Historical Park, and don’t miss shopping at spots such as Houghton’s Keweenaw Gem & Gift for local greenstone and agate jewelry.

Black River Scenic Byway

At just 15 miles, this drive is short, but it’s worth the trip. Skirting the Black River from Bessemer in the western U.P., County Road 513 has been a National Forest Scenic Byway since 1992. Stop at all the falls overlooks, then drive to the Lake Superior harbor and walk the suspension bridge. Stay in Bessemer or Ironwood and tour the Stormy Kromer factory, where you can buy a legendary woolen hat or two.

U.S. 2
Escanaba to St. Ignace

Follow the Lake Michigan shoreline and enjoy another spectacular water-and-color combo. Views of the lake emerge between towns like Rapid River and Manistique, and you’ll discover a number of places that offer their own reasons to linger — like a raft ride over the Kitch-iti-kipi spring. Other places worthy of making a stop are the Cut River Bridge; Gustafson’s in Brevort, for smoked whitefish; and Lehto’s, my favorite pasty shop, which is located along U.S. 2 west of the Mackinac Bridge or in St. Ignace.

Bike the Haywire Grade Trail. Camp at a lakefront site near Brevoort, or stay in Manistique at the Gray Wolf Lodge, with beach access, or at its lakefront city campground.

M-119
Harbor Springs to Cross Village

This is the other original Tunnel of Trees route. With glimpses of Lake Michigan and a slow speed limit, M-119 winds through a beautiful hardwood forest for about 20 miles. Most travelers start near Harbor Springs and go north. At the end, enjoy a lakeside lunch or dinner at Legs Inn (its 2024 season ends Oct. 20, and it’s closed on Tuesdays). Stay in Petoskey or Mackinaw City, or camp in spots such as Burt Lake State Park in Indian River.

M-65
Standish to Rogers City

This more than 100 mile route is less traveled and can be just as scenic in October as it is in mid- to late September. Turn north off U.S. 23 and, in a little while, you’re deep in the Huron-Manistee National Forest. Prepare for stunning views above the river at the Westgate Scenic Outlook, then continue north through miles of hardwoods until you reach Lake Huron at U.S. 23. Find lodging in East Tawas, Mackinaw City, or Rogers City. Camp at state forest campgrounds or along Lake Huron at Rogers City’s P.H. Hoeft State Park.

I-75
Houghton Lake to Mackinaw City

This is one of my favorite drives. It begins where I-75 meets U.S.127 just south of Grayling, and enters forest lands broken only with potential stops for food and lodging at Roscommon, Grayling (canoe or kayak the Au Sable’s South Branch and main stream), and Gaylord (drive deep into the Pigeon River Country State Forest). In early October, the trip between Gaylord and Mackinaw is without-words-spectacular.

Southwest Michigan

The warm Great Lakes help delay fall’s progression here, but mid- to late October is the prime time to enjoy a waterfront drive along what’s basically the same route, but it goes by different names in several locations. At South Haven, it’s North Shore Drive. South of Holland, it’s A-2/Blue Star Memorial Highway. Near Holland, it’s Lakeshore Avenue. Above Muskegon, it’s North Scenic Drive. This is a beautiful route that also offers side trips closer to the water, and there are scores of places to dine and stay — including a winery or two.

M-25

Michigan’s Thumb is capped by M-25. Start by following M-29 from Lake St. Clair through Algonac along the St. Clair River, to Port Huron, then continue north. You’ll pass state parks and go through beach towns and farm communities like Port Austin, Caseville, and Sebewaing, plus historic Grindstone City and Huron City. Stay overnight and explore towns such as Port Austin, Caseville, or Bay City.

U.S. 12

Originally a stagecoach route, U.S. 12 starts in Detroit. West of Saline, huge trees mark the way through the Irish Hills, past antiques shops and parks. The nation’s second federal highway is also one of the state’s first designated Pure Michigan Byways. The fall colors are usually at their peak in late October. Continue on U.S. 12 through to Chicago, and you’ll eventually get to the Pacific Ocean. A fun place to stay is the Clinton Inn, built in 1901, just east of the Irish Hills.

Kensington Metropark

This nearly 4,500-acre southeast Michigan park has everything. A bike trail rings the lake and connects to Island Lake State Recreation Area. A scenic roadway rings it, too. Walk its 12 miles of trails, or ride along 19 miles of marked accessible equestrian trails. Stop by the Farm Center, and take a ride on the lake in late October on the Island Queen (check schedule). Dine and stay in nearby Brighton.

Regardless of which route you choose, slow down. Get out of your vehicle. Experience the smell and crunch of just-fallen leaves on damp ground. Feel that slight crispness in the wind on your cheek. See a waterfall. Watch migrating birds. Enjoy this special season.

Plan It!

Before you go, check out fall color updates, which are available through Pure Michigan, the state’s travel website. michigan.org/fallcolormap