The first time I rolled into Alpena was one fall day long ago when a friend invited me to visit her parents’ house overlooking the city harbor, where they docked their sailboat. My buddies and I eventually used the dad’s backyard garage as a staging area for a delightful weekend bike tour to the community’s old Presque Isle Lighthouse and beyond. I’ve been smitten with this friendly Lake Huron small town and cottage enclave ever since.
Part of the reason centers around the many things the city offers that my family likes to experience when touring Michigan: exploring less-crowded areas, discovering new things about the state’s history, participating in water-related fun, and enjoying the local hospitality. Alpena clicks all four welcoming buttons and more.
On my latest visit, I finally fit in time to learn more about the fascinating and vast 4,300-square-mile Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary at the Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Center. The sanctuary encompasses most of northern Lake Huron, all the way to the Canadian border. It’s known as Shipwreck Alley because there are more than 200 sunken vessels on the sandy bottom throughout this treacherous section of the great lake.
A Must-Do: I joined 30 others on a two-hour, narrated glass-bottom boat ride to view the watery graveyard, but I definitely want to return soon to kayak — or maybe even snorkel — over other interesting wrecks. Tip: The best cruise days are in the spring, when the water is at
its clearest.
Base Camp: Located near six galleries, live theater, neat small shops, and dining and entertainment options, the Holiday Inn Express & Suite’s downtown location overlooking the Thunder Bay River provides a great base camp for exploring Alpena. I like the easy stroll from there to the downtown district, the historic buildings, and a harbor walk leading to views of the 1914-era Little Red lighthouse. Ask for a river view room (quite comfortable with queens or kings, and nice hotel amenities) at the four-story, 90-room inn, which opened in 2017.
From there, you’re a short walk from many of the 20-plus beautifully painted building murals scattered around town. A Plus: A trek along the riverwalk loop, with numerous interpretive signs detailing the significance of Alpena’s marine history, helps to maintain your daily step count while away from home.
Best Bets: The following stories highlight some favorite top-of-the-mitt activities in this historic lumbering, fishing, and mining community. From the Dark Sky Preserve and the old limestone quarry at the nearby Rockport State Recreation Area, with its sandy Lake Huron beaches, to the digital dome planetarium theater at the Besser Museum, the suggestions in this section outline an adventure-packed getaway itinerary for anyone visiting this impressive Pure Michigan destination.
Plan It!
Visit Alpena, visitalpena.com
Incredible Views
Visitors can climb to the top of two classic lighthouses
Only the hardy opt to climb the steep, winding 130 steps to the top of the New Presque Isle Lighthouse north of Alpena.
At 113 feet tall, “it’s the tallest lighthouse on the Great Lakes that can be climbed by the public. The view from the brick tower is spectacular,” reports Mary Tagliareni, president of the Presque Isle Township Museum Society.
For those who make the challenging climb, a reward awaits. “On a clear day you can see northeast across Lake Huron to Great Duck Island, which sits off Manitoulin Island — which, in turn, forms the north side of Canada’s Georgian Bay. To the south you can see the limestone quarry beyond Lake Esau and the Rockport docks, where massive lake freighters put in to be loaded. To the west you can see deep into Presque Isle County,” she says.
Within about a mile of each other, visitors can see two lighthouses. The second is the Old Lighthouse, which was built in 1840 and continued to operate until 1870, when range lights took over. It’s one of the oldest on the Great Lakes. The much taller New Lighthouse was built in 1870 and remains in service.
Exhibits at the fully restored 1905 keeper’s house document the history of both lights and the stories of the keepers, including the members of one family who managed the two lights over a period of 74 years.
The lighthouses (you can climb both) and their museums are open seasonally. The parks around the grounds are open year-round. Range Light Park — featuring the original 1870 Front Range Light tower, picnic shelter, and beach — is along the drive to the lighthouses.
It’s a fun outing along a delightful, less-traveled route for lighthouse enthusiasts. Pack a picnic and a couple pops, along with some folding chairs to relax in after hiking the trails to either the rocky shore (my favorite) on one side or the sandy beaches for swimming on the other side of the new light park. The old light park is good for freighter-watching.
Beware: “There are persistent rumors that the old lighthouse is haunted. We place no great stock in these tales,” Tagliareni laughs. “However, many people say that curious things happen at the old light.”
Plan It!
Presque Isle Township Museum Society
presqueislelighthouses.org
Other nearby lighthouses
visitalpena.com/adventures/lighthouses/
Legends of the Lake
Make the Maritime Heritage Center your first stop
Exploring and preserving the Lake Huron depths spanning 4,300 square miles — the expanse of the enormous Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary (TBNMS) — is the mission of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s (NOAA) Alpena facility. And they love searching for undiscovered shipwrecks.
The sanctuary, which celebrates its 25th anniversary in 2025, was the first freshwater national marine sanctuary in the country. Its boundaries extend from just shy of Bois Blanc Island near Cheboygan to just north of Oscoda, and eastward to the lake’s international border with Canada.
Beyond the activities of NOAA staff and partners, the sanctuary’s main visitor attraction is the Great Lakes Maritime Heritage Center, located along the Thunder Bay River near downtown Alpena. The center is co-managed by NOAA and the State of Michigan. Education and outreach are supported by the popular nonprofit Friends of TBNMS.An entertaining multiday, water-focused film festival run every January. The next fest is Jan. 22-26, 2026.
“Being free and open year-round, the visitor center and sanctuary waters are a special place to visit to really dive into the rich maritime history of the Great Lakes,” says Stephanie Gandulla, the sanctuary’s resource protection coordinator.
“The nearly 100 shipwrecks preserved in the sanctuary waters are some of the best-preserved in the entire world. This significant collection is also very accessible, and you don’t have to be a diver to witness this amazing history,” she adds. “Whether you climb aboard a life-size schooner in the exhibits or paddle, snorkel, scuba dive, or even take a glass-bottom boat to see shipwrecks, there’s really something for everyone.”
Where to Start: “I personally love exploring our Visible Artifact Storage exhibit (from shipwrecks), but there’s so much to do in the 10,000 square feet of interactive maritime exhibits,” Gandulla says. “You can climb aboard a life-size wooden schooner (that rocks with the power of a Lake Huron storm as you walk through), watch a film in our NOAA Science on a Sphere theater, and much more.”
I recommend taking a good 90 minutes to explore the two-floor center and learn about the sanctuary’s secrets before taking a glass-bottom boat tour, which departs from the center’s dock. The model gallery of Great Lakes ship types
is fascinating.
Plan It!
Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary
thunderbay.noaa.gov
Underwater Museum
Glass-bottom boat tours provide a glimpse into the past
he Alpena Shipwreck Tours crew likes to say their glass-bottom boat cruises “explore the underwater museum” of the Thunder Bay National Marine Sanctuary. Only about 100 of the more than 200 estimated shipwrecks around this dangerous stretch of Lake Huron have been identified, so there’s plenty more to discover.
For me, nothing beats going out on the great lake and seeing the sanctuary’s dazzling collection of well-preserved shipwrecks.
“During the trip, we explore shipwrecks and get up close, all while staying dry. We visit two to three shipwrecks per tour, depending on the weather and visibility. There’s live narration throughout the tour where the rich history of Alpena’s industries, lighthouses, and even more shipwrecks are discussed,” explains Chrissy Carriveau, office manager for Alpena Shipwreck Tours.
“You’re able to get close without needing any sort of diving equipment or swimming skills, or getting wet. Each tour is unique based on the time of year, the captain in charge, and the deckhands,” she continues. “Each captain has their favorite shipwrecks and their favorite areas to explore. They truly
get excited when the wrecks
are clear and they’re able to share their love of shipwrecks with passengers.”
• Tours ($39 for adults) run from May through the beginning of October, with the 9 a.m. cruise typically being the calmest and clearest for viewing. However, be aware that water visibility changes daily and even throughout the day.
• Passengers can move around between the open upper deck and lower enclosed-glass viewing well deck. On clear days, shipwrecks can sometimes be seen from the top deck.
• The 80-passenger Lady Michigan floats over the shipwrecks, moving the length of the wrecks to see as many sections as possible.
• I’d recommend you ask questions, because the crew has great stories to tell. On my cruise, I sat in the pilot house with the captain for a while and heard some amazing tales.
New Offering: The company launched Alpena Kayak Tours last summer and will schedule more four-hour, no-experience-necessary adventures off its catamaran; tours include about two hours of paddling. Kayakers paddle over limestone formations and view lighthouses near Thunder Bay Island during the guide-led historical tour.
Plan It!
Alpena Shipwreck Tours
alpenashipwrecktours.com
A Birding Hotspot
From shorelines to wetlands, loads of worthy viewing sites await
Because of its flyway location along Lake Huron, the four-county Alpena region offers outstanding bird-watching outings at prime habitats.
“Literally hundreds of bird species visit Alpena each year. Some migrate and nest in Alpena’s many wetlands, such as the 450-acre Alpena Wildlife Sanctuary,” reports Mary Tetzlaff, president of the Thunder Bay Audubon Society. “There’s a number of different types of habitats where birds can be found, each with its own unique birds and wildlife species.”
good starting point for birders who are new to the area. “It circles the wildlife sanctuary and runs along the river into downtown and the parks along Lake Huron. The path along the river through the fairgrounds is easily accessible, and Island Park has a handicap-accessible trail to a lookout point over the river. Ample opportunity exists for kayaking the river, its tributaries, and our inland lakes, offering additional places where you can view birds.”
The spring and fall migrations are the best times to see a variety of birds, but Tetzlaff says successful birding can occur at any time of the year. “Early morning and evening are best for viewing here, but a rare sighting of an American white pelican took place during the day in early spring, near the mouth of the Thunder Bay River.
“In the spring, we’re particularly focused on the small migrators, such as warblers, because they’re colorful and can most easily be seen before the trees and shrubs leaf out,” Tetzlaff continues. “In the fall, we enjoy looking for
migrating raptors.”
Magic Moment: On a visit last fall, my wife and I ventured out for an afternoon hike through the charming Misery Bay Nature Preserve. It was decked out in pretty wildflowers and was heady with the scent of pines. As we walked to the lakeshore, she was excited to photograph a blue heron in flight very close to us. To our surprise, a bald eagle flew into her camera viewfinder, along with the heron, making for a fantastic photo op. Next time, we’ll pack a picnic and chairs to stay a little longer waiting for another big thrill.
Local Tips:
• See the “Departure of the Great Blue Heron” sculpture in the Alpena Wildlife Sanctuary.
• Download a copy of the Sunrise Side Birding Map, which highlights prime birding spots along U.S. 23.
• Check the society’s website for details on recent bird sightings, hot locations, and monthly
activities where visiting birders from beginners to pros
are welcome.
Plan It!
Thunder Bay Audubon Society
thunderbayaudubon.com
Sunrise Side Birding Map
us23heritageroute.org
Hit the Road
Bike routes for all levels fan out in many directions
Levi Goebel was happy to return home because of all the opportunities to play outside.
“Alpena is somewhat of an outdoors enthusiast’s hidden gem. You’ll find trail options for scenic rides, mountain biking, and gravel biking; there’s a wide range of biking options, and there’s something for everyone. It’s also perfect for kayaking, fishing, and hiking, with plenty of parks and trails to explore,” he says.
Last year, Goebel took over ownership of Harborside Cycle & Sport, which opened downtown in 2015. “We have big plans in store for our space. It may not be (happen in) 2025 but we plan to move into a larger storefront and offer the community more options,” the owner says. In the winter, his focus turns to fat-tire bikes, snowshoes, and skis.
Top Picks: “Norway Ridge and Chippewa Hills are the best in the area. The trails are well-kept by the Thunder Bay Trails Association. Both offer walking and single-track trails,” he says.
For a short, paved bike ride, Goebel recommends the 18.5-mile Alpena Bi-Path, which follows the Thunder Bay River and hits most parks in town. With some 100 miles of pathways circling Alpena, he says there’s a selection of trails for all levels.
“Last year we started sponsoring a local gravel bike race called Thunder Bay Thriller by RockCF,” he says. “New this year is the race on the Michigan Gravel Bike Series tour. A short 16-mile course option was also added. The race was a big hit and brought many cyclists to Alpena.”
My Favorites: The scenic, packed limestone North Eastern State Trail, which runs 70 miles from Alpena to Cheboygan, ranks as my No. 1 ride. The little-used converted rail-trail is fun as an out-and-back day ride of various distances, or as a longer, round-trip overnighter into the Mackinac Straits area. I also love a back-road route of about 30 miles from Bay View Park downtown out to the Presque Isle lighthouses. It has pretty lake views and friendly stops along the way. A gravel biking option is the 22-mile Alpena to Hillman Trail (rail-trail).
Plan It!
Top of Michigan Trails
trailscouncil.org
Good Eats
Best bets for tasty downtown treats
Who doesn’t like a “been-there” recommendation when you’re wondering where to dine in a new town? Here’s a sampling of downtown Alpena restaurants I’ve enjoyed on recent visits.
Red Brick
My wife and I were lucky to grab two cozy bar seats inside this 130-year-old renovated building during Alpena High’s busy homecoming weekend. It’s an energizing place with modern touches that was a saloon for more than 100 years. Chef Kevin Peterson, his wife, Brooke, and partner Corey Canute opened it in 2020.He switches up the scrumptious menu from summer to winter, to take advantage of seasonal flavors. His goal: “To bring big-city vibes to our local small town.” A yummy favorite is the gluten-free fish and chips (yes, gluten-free!). Pluses: Impressive whiskey, craft beer, and spirits selections; outdoor dining; and menu ingredients from local growers.
HopSide Brewery
This friendly hangout, serving special-recipe comfort food in an airy dining space with lots of windows overlooking the main street, opened in 2021. It’s the creation of five owners, says co-owner/manager Amy Greenway. “All are local friends who have a passion for the craft of a brewery and distillery. We’re proud of what we’ve become as a nano-brewery, Alpena’s first legal distillery, and a restaurant.” Everything is brewed and distilled on-site, and at least 24 of its beers, six spirits, and a seltzer are on tap (many are available in cans to go). A beer garden patio is pet-friendly and there are six TVs for watching sports.
The Old Polish Corner
The traditionally Polish area on the city’s north side is home to Brian Peterson’s wonderful gathering place. It’s so delicious that this Polish boy calls it a must-stop. Opened in 2022, it features authentic Polish dishes combined with American fare, 15 beers, and 30 vodkas (all Polish). “Our dishes are handmade. Our Polish and fresh meats come from nearby Nowicki’s Sausage Shoppe,” Peterson says. My wife says the dill pickle soup is the best she’s had. Peterson’s rotating weekly menu items often are Polish fusion dishes. He’s working on expanding the kitchen and adding a second-story patio. There are two Airbnb-style rentals above the restaurant.
Mangos Tequila Bar
When you see the owner serving tables and mixing drinks, I usually believe the service and the food will be pretty good. So, when I saw owner Arturo Mendez out on the floor, my wife and I ordered another round of Margaritas to celebrate that fact. “We pride ourselves on bringing our community a space for great food with even greater memories,” Mendez says. Open since 2018, the spacious Mangos offers a huge variety of Mexican cuisine (big servings) complemented by just as huge of an assortment of tequilas and Margaritas. Mangos has another location in East Tawas, and Mangos Express is slated to reopen at a new location in Alpena this year.
Starlite Bay Café
For breakfast or lunch, check out this gem near the harbor, which opened last July. Dana Kolnowski and her husband, Nick, are the owners/chefs. “We use as many fresh and local flavors as possible to make handcrafted dishes from scratch with love and care,” Dana says. “Our biscuits and gravy is one of our top sellers, and our homemade jam is another big hit.” You’ll find generous portions, delicious soups, and convivial service, all in an inviting setting.
Other Faves
• JJ’s Steak and Pizza House has been a casual city
institution since 1993, and serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Expect top-notch fare in a bar-like setting, complete with a drive-thru window. They even have a wooden table made from
an old shipwreck.
• For your morning fix, check out the family-run Cabin Creek Coffee shop. It features an espresso bar (cappuccinos, lattes, and mochas), specialty coffees, smoothies, sandwiches, and homemade baked treats (delish cookies and scones). The shop has a relaxing vibe, seating, free Wi-Fi, and some 20 coffee blends you can take home.
• For a nice afternoon break, sample locally produced wines at the Thunder Bay Winery’s tasting room inside the Center Building. There’s outdoor seating and comfy inside tables where you can relax with a glass from its impressive wine lineup. The winery hosts a harvest festival every September.
Plan It!
Visit Alpena, visitalpena.com
Destination Highlights
Here are a few extras to round out your Alpena visit
Discover Northeast Michigan History exhibit and is making other facility upgrades. There are several permanent exhibits and three celebrated art galleries worth visiting, plus you can learn how the Besser Co. revolutionized the worldwide concrete block-making industry. The digital dome Planetarium Theater presents a great selection of sky shows on Fridays and Saturdays. bessermuseum.org
Water Sports: Kayaking, canoeing, stand-up paddleboarding, snorkeling, scuba diving, and more provide up-close ways to see the shipwrecks near the Lake Huron shore, or to explore the many local lakes and quiet rivers, including Duck Park, Island Park, and the Alpena Wildlife Sanctuary. There are dozens of sandy beaches and other places around town to launch your adventures. Contact Alpena Pedal & Paddle for snorkeling excursions or equipment rentals. Several captains offer Lake Huron fishing charters for salmon, walleye, and trout. Clem’s Bait & Tackle, by the Ninth Avenue dam, is a good place to start.
Fossil Hunting: Spend the day at the 4,237-acre Rockport State Recreation Area along Lake Huron’s shoreline. Here you’ll find dozens of sinkholes, ghost town remains, neat hiking and biking trails, sandy beaches, and picnicking areas. The landscape at the abandoned 300-acre limestone quarry is peppered with fossils you can collect that date back 400 million years. The adjoining Besser Natural Area has one of Michigan’s last remaining stands of virgin pines.
View the Cosmos: The Alpena countryside has some of the lowest light pollution readings around the Great Lakes. That’s why the Rockport State Recreation Area makes for amazing stargazing as a designated 24-hour Michigan Dark Sky Preserve with clear views over Lake Huron. Other nearby Dark Sky Preserves are at Thompson’s Harbor State Park (26 miles north of town) and Negwegon State Park (20 miles south).
Plan It!
Download the Visit Alpena planning app from the App Store or get it on Google Play.
