Photo Courtesy of The Albion Malleable Brewing CO.
There’s something appealing about hanging out and sipping beer at Albion Malleable Brewing Co., located in an historic college town with a celebrated waterway — the Kalamazoo River — running through it.
Beginning in Hillsdale County as a spring-fed pond, the Kalamazoo River meanders northwesterly 175 miles to Lake Michigan, near Saugatuck. The river’s south branch joins with the north branch at “The Forks” in Calhoun County’s historic downtown Albion.
The city was first settled by pioneers nearly 200 years ago at “The Forks.” Nearly a decade later, Albion College, an acclaimed and picturesque private liberal arts college, was founded along the north branch of the river. In the 19th and early 20th centuries, Albion became known as a milling, agricultural, and manufacturing town. Newcomers were drawn to the area to work for businesses such as the Albion Malleable Iron Co., which closed more than 20 years ago after changing ownership several times.
Along the charming, brick-lined Superior Street Commercial Historic District, newer businesses such as Albion Malleable Brewing Co., together with longtime businesses and Albion College, are working to preserve, redevelop, and revitalize the downtown area.
When the Albion Malleable Brewing Co. renovated its building in 2018, it looked to Albion’s past to help forge its future. “We shamelessly resurrected the Albion Malleable name, which carries so many memories and (is the source of) so much pride in this community. If you look up the definition of ‘malleable,’ it means ‘continuously hammered without breaking.’ It stands for the city and the spirit and determination that continue here to this day,” says Ben Wade, co-owner and chief brewing officer.
Photo Courtesy of The Albion Malleable Brewing CO.
The big distinction, of course, is that instead of iron, the Albion Malleable of today produces award-winning Belgian-inspired beer and house-ground burgers, and promotes a renewed sense of community.
Wade grew up in Albion, attended Albion College, and was a brewing hobbyist before being inspired to launch the brewery with two other founders and a group of local-minded investors. Their motivation was sparked by the successful renovation of the downtown’s nearly century-old Bohm Theater in 2014 and the opening of a new Courtyard by Marriot hotel in 2018, both located on Superior Street.
“The $4 million revitalization of the Bohm Theater lit a flame in the community and showed us a path to a better downtown Albion,” Wade says. “We knew the town deserved better and we were committed to Albion. We just had to determine what we were going to do. The craft beer industry was vibrant, fun, and community-oriented. It just made sense.”
Wade was drawn to the Belgian brewing tradition and its distinctive malty flavors. He appreciated the tradition’s taste, history, and craftmanship. “Belgian-style beer is a personal preference, and I like the tradition and rich history of where it came from. It has been brewed by monks longer than other beers. I also really like the traditional flavors,” he says.
There are about 400 breweries in the state, but only four have a Belgian focus. Recently, craft beer sales have pulled back a bit and the market is adjusting, with exotic beer flavors being the first to go. Wade says his focus is on traditional beer-flavored beers. “We believe in really great beers done well,” he says.
Albion Malleable has a rotating selection of beers on tap including IPAs, ales, pilsners, and porters with interesting names gleaned from stories, pop culture, and obscure references — such as its farmhouse ale named Proper Villains. “It comes from the movie ‘Oceans Eleven’ and references competitors not always playing by the rules,” Wade laughs.
In addition to great beer and burgers, the restaurant’s menu includes appetizers, sandwiches, pizza, soups, and salads. It recently added Odd Brother Craft Ciders from nearby Homer, spirits from select Michigan distilleries, and an array of specially curated global wines. Its beverage menu includes a selection of creative cocktails and mocktails.
General Manager Emily DiRado, who’s also an Albion College graduate and head coach of the women’s lacrosse team, adds: “We’re known for being named a best burger in 2020, but we put the same care in all our food. We offer traditional foods, but (they’re) elevated with a new spin. Everything is made from scratch — (we feature) homemade pizza dough, sauces, syrups, and garnishes — and we use local sources and shops whenever possible.”
The warm industrial vibe of the renovated late 19th century brick building, which is now home to a taphouse, kitchen, and brewhouse, offers a welcoming space to meet for beer, food, and conversation at wooden tables made from repurposed boards that were discovered during the renovation. Outdoor seating and live music are on tap during warmer months.
One of those beloved Albion events, The Festival of the Forks, has been held annually in September since the 1960s to celebrate the interwoven history of the city, the many cultures of its diverse residents, and the river that evolved from a water and power source to one of fun and recreation.
“Community is a big word around here. Albion Malleable is a great, fun place to gather and hang out for a beer and a good meal. There’s no rush when you’re here — stay and enjoy,” DiRado says.
“Albion has a small but dedicated, hardworking group of business owners offering unmatched quality and lots of cool things to draw people from inside and outside the community,” Wade adds. “We encourage people to come see what we’re about and to always support local businesses.”
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Albion Malleable Brewing Co.
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