Mary’s Marvelous Meals

Ingredients for a good cookbook include a seasoned author, personal stories, and the ease of a spiral binding // Photography by Bear Nelson, Ciesa Design
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When Mary Brady received her Certified Executive Chef designation through the American Culinary Federation in the 1990s, she was one of two women in Michigan to achieve that esteemed recognition. Married to Tom Brady, a restaurateur whose father owned the original Diamond Jim Brady’s on Seven Mile and Greenfield roads in Detroit, Brady most recently owned Diamond Jim Brady’s Bistro-Bar in Novi. When she sold it two years ago, she was happy to find more time for other interests she wanted to pursue, including writing a cookbook.

“It’s something I’ve wanted to do forever, probably most of my adult life,” Brady says. “I thought I’d get it done fast, but, as I got into it, I realized it wasn’t going to happen overnight. If it was going to be a project (I was going to be proud of, I realized I needed) some real commitment.” She worked with a large team of people, including a photographer who was involved in 12 photo shoots. “Those shoots were intense and were shot at my home (in Milford).”

Brady compiled 61 recipes and wrote stories and reflections to go with each of them. “Looking Back, Cooking Forward” even features recipes that were so cherished by Brady and her family over the years, they made it onto her restaurant menus. The large hardcover book features a spiral binding, which makes it very accommodating in the kitchen. (The book can lay open, flat, making it easy to read).
“My goal was to be sure all the recipes were extremely easy to make. I want people to cook and not be intimidated,” she says. Recipes for everything from Caribbean chicken wings and prime rib hash to passionfruit tea sangria and chocolate fudge cheesecake pepper the book’s pages.

Michigan Blue editor Megan Swoyer met with Brady to find out what’s not in the kitchen at her Milford home, and what everyone should consider having in the place where they cook. We also discovered what inspires her recipes and cooking. The chef reminisced about her childhood days in the kitchen with her mom, grandma, and lots of aunts, capturing the spirit and essence of good food enjoyed with family and friends.
We also share her favorite recipes for throwing together the perfect picnic, just in time for Michigan’s best al fresco season.

MEGAN SWOYER: When did you decide to become a professional chef?

Mary Brady: I’ve always enjoyed cooking; I was passionate about it (even as) a young person. When I started teaching at Schoolcraft College (in Livonia), one my fellow instructors, a certified master chef, said, “Mary, you should become certified.” So he and another man, certified master chef Dan Huglier, mentored and sponsored me. I think I was one of 16 in the world to be a female Certified Executive Chef. Those statistics have changed, thankfully.

MS: Any childhood cooking memories?

MB: I grew up in Buffalo, N.Y., and I cooked with my grandparents and various aunts. On Fridays we’d have perch fish fries. My grandfather and uncles caught the fish in the Niagara River, cleaned them, and then we’d have a fish fry with fish, chips, and coleslaw for up to 30 people.

MS: That sounds fun. What else were you observing as a kid when it came to cooking?

MB: One aunt would make stuffed breast of veal and all kinds of soups. Another aunt was way ahead of her time and created a food-to-go business featuring meatballs and marinara sauce. She sold out every single day. She also worked in her husband’s butcher shop.

MS: What will I not find in your kitchen?

MB: Okra.

MS: Where can one find fresh shrimp?

MB: Gordon Food Service has shell-on American, wild-caught shrimp. Also, Kerrytown in Ann Arbor has an amazing fish market, and I buy from there when I can.

MS: What dried herbs and spices do you like to use, and what do you always have on hand?

MB: (I always have) my salt blend, which I make with Kosher salt, ground pepper, cayenne pepper, and granulated garlic powder (the recipe is in my cookbook). I also like to have ginger, saffron, cumin, smoked paprika, coriander, turmeric, and chili powder nearby.

MS: What’s special about your chicken salad?

MB: It’s gently poached and shredded. Dried cranberries and toasted walnuts also make it special. It was so popular that it was on the Diamond Jim Brady’s Bistro menu for 20-plus years.

MS: What’s your must-have cooking tool?

MB: My knives are my best friends in the kitchen. Some are handmade, purchased in Canada. When I was competing, I used Wusthof-Trident knives. Knives should be sharp and feel comfortable in your hand.

MS: Do you have any favorite pans?

MB: I love cooking in castiron. I love Le Creuset pans. Also, all-clad stainless steel or Atlas stainless — both are used in restaurants, and mine were a gift from my sisters for my wedding in 1985. They’ve been well-used and are ready for the next 50 years.

MS: What’s the lowdown on olive oil?

MB: All olive oils have their place in cooking. Less-expensive ones are OK for sautéing, but not for making dressings. I often sauté in half olive oil and half butter.

MS: How do you cook fresh green beans?

MB: When I’m cooking haricots verts, I place them in salted, boiling water. I undercook them and then I put them in an ice water bath, which stops the cooking process and preserves the vibrant green. They’ll be crunchier. When it’s almost time to serve them, I’ll sauté them in a little garlic and olive oil, and then top them with chopped parsley.

More Information:
To order Mary’s Brady’s “Looking Back, Cooking Forward,” visit chefmarybrady.com. The chef teaches cooking classes and makes presentations at area businesses. Visit Brady’s website for class information or follow her on Instagram at chefmarybrady.

Chef Mary Brady says to include two small sweet onions when whipping up Harvey House Coleslaw.

Harvey House Coleslaw

(Makes 12 servings)
For Fred Harvey, a traveling salesman in the mid-1800s, the main mode of transportation was by train. Disheartened by the lack of good food along his journeys, he approached the Santa Fe Railroad’s management and got their approval to develop the first chain restaurant, Harvey House. The food was fresh, made by chefs, and served white-tablecloth style. This is one of the restaurant’s staple menu items and has been a favorite to recreate in home kitchens since it was first introduced. Aunt Jo, my dad’s sister, would always bring this to a family gathering. This is my version of her Harvey House slaw. I suggest using a processor or old-fashioned shredding board for fresh veggies, although pre-shredded ones work well in a pinch.
Ingredients
  • 1 small head of green
  • cabbage, shredded
  • 2 medium carrots, grated
  • 1½ bell pepper, shredded, any color or combination
  • ½ small head of radicchio, shredded
  • 2 small, sweet onions, cut in half andthinly sliced (don’t shred, as the juice will overwhelm the taste)
  • 1 cup sugar
Preparation 
In a large bowl, make four layers of cabbage, peppers, onions, radicchio, and carrots, sprinkling each with sugar.
Poached chicken makes for a good chicken salad, Brady says. Corn and Black Bean Salsa is the perfect side dish.

The Best Chicken Salad Sandwich, with Bacon and Avocado

(Makes four sandwiches)
This is simple, delicious comfort food. My Grandmother Smith was the first to introduce me to poached chicken tossed with a touch of mayo and a sprinkling of parsley. Over time my chicken salad has evolved to become a bit more “fussy,” but in an easy and casual way. Poach your chicken at just a simmer and allow it to cool in the cooking broth, so it stays nice and moist. Dried cranberries can be substituted for the cherries, and guacamole for the sliced avocado. There’s no need to add bread; it’s wonderful all on its own, nestled on a bed of butter lettuce.
Ingredients 
  • 1pound raw chicken breasts
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 4 whole peppercorns ½ cup dried cherries
  • Juice of ½ medium lemon
  • ½ cup toasted walnuts
  • ½ cup of a high-quality mayo, or just enough to moisten the mixture
  • Salt and pepper, to taste
  • 4 sturdy buns, such as sourdough or ciabatta
  • 4 slices of crispy bacon
  • 1 avocado, sliced at the last minute
Preparation 
Place the chicken into a saucepan and cover with water (or chicken stock), the bay leaves, and peppercorns. Bring to a simmer and cook until 160 degrees. Cool. Pull the chicken into large pieces and toss with the lemon juice, cherries, walnuts, and mayo. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Divide the salad onto the buns, and top with the bacon and avocado.
Note
To toast the walnut pieces, heat a sautéé pan over medium heat. Add nuts and toss until browned. Watch closely, as they’ll burn the moment you ignore them.

Corn and Black Bean Salsa

Ingredients
  • 4 ears of corn
  • 1 tablespoon salt
  • 15-ounce can black beans, rinsed
  • 4 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 2 scallions, diced fine
  • ½ medium red pepper, diced medium
  • ¼ cup chopped cilantro
  • Salt and pepper, to taste
Preparation 
Fill a pot that’s large enough to hold the corn halfway with water. Add the salt. Bring to a rolling boil and add the ears. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook the corn for five minutes, then remove the corn from the water and cool. When the corn has cooled, position each cob separately over a large bowl and shave the kernels off, taking care not to include any of the spiky cob itself. Add the rest of the ingredients into the bowl. Toss and season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate until ready to enjoy!
Note
I like to keep the corn water to use as a vegetable stock. It freezes well for four months. Roasted red peppers from your pantry work well if you don’t have a fresh red pepper. A chiffonade of basil is a good stand-in for the cilantro, if need be.

 

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