Along the Water's Edge
While wooden boat fans across the country prepare
to showcase their favorite finds in Bay Harbor this
September, one collector ventures to share the
place he most enjoys them.

By Lisa M. Jensen | Photography by Michael Buck

Nestled within the woodsy warmth of a rustic cabin, a log shifts in the wide stone fireplace, hissing like butter sizzling in a skillet. Embers spark. An old Mission clock ticks on the mantel, the furnace hums, the scent of smoke fills the air. And myriad oars line the walls like adolescents at a dance as Billie Holiday’s equally smokey voice (“If there is a crime, dear, then I’m guilty of loving you) smolders, too, throughout the room.

Ken Kelly loves this place.

“I really just wanted a northern getaway,” shared the wine distributor, who came to Michigan from New York and now resides in Grand Rapids with his wife, Mary, and two teenage sons, Reed and Ian. “A cabin was on my ‘list’ of what I wanted my Michigan experience to be. ”

The couple liked the Leelanau Peninsula and Suttons Bay area, but couldn’t find the older, authentic cabin Ken had in mind. Then a friend mentioned a place nearby, southeast of Manistee, tucked within an upland forest of oak, maple and birch off the unspoiled edge of an 80-acre lake. The minute Ken saw it, he said, “I knew this was it. ”

Built in 1934, the cabin was solid log, with three bedrooms, a sleeping loft, a functional kitchen, two screened porches and a basement. It had been in the seller’s family for five decades, but updates they had made stayed true to ’30s-era character: There were no sliding glass doors or chopped-in sky lights, Ken said, and the rattling back screen door still had to be hooked to stay closed.

Preserving the family cabin’s integrity had meant much to the seller, comparable to how Ken would have approached it. And in the spring of 1993, he swooped his arms around it.“By Memorial Day,” Ken said, “we had closed the deal. ”

Furnishings including two old upholstered rockers, a little hickory desk, rustic wood bed frames and a black mount rotary phone remained. Other items like weathered duck decoys, a hand-crafted chess set and books also stayed behind.

Ken loved it all — and has been adding his own collections to it ever since.

“Mary likes having friends come up to prepare meals together and the kinds of discussions we get into by the fire when we’re all here for a weekend,” said Ken. “We also relax here with our boys.

“But while Mary likes that social aspect and escape, I really enjoy it and come up here the most, to fish and to bird hunt. It ’s really my place.” It also ignited something entirely new.

THE BEGINNING OF THE END
Growing up, Ken’s family had shared a cottage with another family on Lake Bellaire, two miles east of Torch Lake in Northern Michigan. There he came across his first wooden boat.

“The guy who owned our cottage before us had a Chris-Craft,” Ken said. “I remember how cool that old woodie boat was compared to the aluminum and fiberglass boats we were riding around in. I always wanted to get a Chris-Craft just like that when I got a cabin of my own.”

As an adult, his appreciation for such craftsmanship expanded as he went to antique wooden boat shows and became acquainted with restoration. Finally, after years of waiting and then finding the perfect cabin, there was only one problem.

“It was on a no-motor lake,” Ken said. “So I picked up an old wooden canoe. At the time, I figured they were pretty much all the same.”

First what he discovered was “the substance” of being in one: the weight, the glimmer of the varnished wood, how it sounds. He likes going out alone, especially at dawn. (“I head out with a thermos of coffee, a fishing pole and a cigar to watch the sun come up. The steam is rising off the water’s surface, the birds start to call , the deer come out of the woods to drink, and I just become an integral part of it all — of what this day is about to be.”)

Then Ken discovered he didn’t care if he didn’t catch a fish. “It just takes your attention away from everything else around you.”

When the seasons began to change, Ken decided to store his canoe up on the cabin’s great room wall. “It looked so good,” he noted, “I said, ‘Well, Mary, let’s just leave it there. But now I ’ll need one to paddle.’”

Sight unseen, Ken bought his second canoe — a traditional 15-foot, Old Town Guide — from a wooden canoe aficionado. “I arrived to pick it up, then saw his collection. I hadn’t realized how many variations and styles of canoes there were.

“I drove away with mine, feeling happy,” he said. “But I also found myself thinking, ‘No wonder he’s selling it. It ’s so ordinary.’”

That, added Ken — who estimates he’s owned 100 different canoes over the past 15 years, though never more than 20 at a time — was the beginning of the end.

“Why do you start to collect something?” he asked. “A lot of times, it’s just being attracted to this thing for whatever reason — aesthetics, craftsmanship, childhood memories. Or maybe it’s by chance: I wouldn’t have looked for a canoe if I hadn’t bought this cabin. Or you see something and just buy it because you like it. You want another one.

“And then your attraction leads to finding out as much as you can about it. You read books, go to shows, join a club, subscribe to magazines, start surfing online. You discover different manufacturers and notice variations; you become drawn to a certain style or era. You start to think, ‘Wow, if I could ever find one like that!’ “It gets exciting.”

THAT SPECIAL SOMETHING
In the early 20th century — at the height of canoeing’s popularity — young couples loved to drift along the Charles River near Boston. While the gallant gent paddled from the back thwart, his girl could sit on a cushion, facing him against a backrest. In response, nearly a dozen boat builders began fashioning a current of these “courting” canoes.

The highest-end, most expensive models, these had curved ends and lavish details and long decks and looked great in vintage catalogs. Ken was smitten: He wanted one.

Convinced in the early stages of collector’s anxiety that he’d never be able to find an original, he contacted a canoe builder he’d found through a magazine published by the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association. (He has since become its president.)

“This guy in New Hampshire had the mold and the equipment those Charles River canoes were made from originally,” Ken said. “I was able to specify what I wanted my canoe to be — the wood, the color scheme. I had him make a back rest so Mary could lean back, and a custom paddle for me.”

He named the canoe after his wife: the Mary Betz.

“It was part of my thinly veiled attempt to get Mary on board,” Ken said, noting the project’s cost was about $3,000 — and that he later found out original Charles River canoes could be found more easily than he’d thought. “But she knew exactly what I was doing, and just supported me. Maybe for that reason most of all, this canoe will always be a favorite.”

Hunting for a particular style of canoe definitely has its allure, Ken said, and he’s created a menu of strategies for seeking that special something out. “One of the earlier canoes I bought was from a guy who was really big into Audubon,” Ken noted. “He’d always taken his canoe out on the river to do his birding, and I figured there were probably other people like him who didn’t use their canoes anymore, either.

“So I’d put ads in the Whitefish Point Bird Observatory newsletter. I’d advertise in little niche things, like Michigan Out-Of-Doors Magazine, put out through Michigan United Conservation Clubs.”

While Ken enjoys tackling basic restoration jobs himself — “though my skills don’t equal my standards” — he also finds and sells canoes through restoration specialists. “Gil Cramer has a shop just over the Ohio border, and he did my first dozen or so restorations.

“He was actually a retired high school science teacher who just restored canoes because he loved to do it,” Ken added. “That’s why I liked taking mine to him.”

He also remembers another guy who always showed up at the antique shows, driving a van that had the words I BUY CANOES painted on it. “Rustic stuff was kind of trendy then,” Ken said, “and this man would cut old canoes in half to make bookshelves. He found a lot of canoes, but I didn’t want to paint that on my vehicle.”

More than anywhere else, though, Ken likes finding, selling and just enjoying his canoes through area clubs including the Wooden Canoe Heritage Association and Antique Classic Boat Society’s West Michigan Wonderland Chapter. These ardent fans of wooden boats and canoes network and gather for shows and outings, making the most of their collections by sharing them.

“This September, our West Michigan Wonderland Chapter hosts the national annual meeting of the Antique Classic Boat Society in Bay Harbor, and members throughout the country will be coming up here to explore Northern Michigan’s Chain of Lakes and other places,” Ken said. “We did this 10 years ago for the first time. It’s a huge deal: A lot of volunteer work, a lot of people, a lot of fun.”
He smiled. “And a whole lot of wooden canoes.”

To learn more about wooden boats and canoes, visit www.acbs.org, www.wcha.org and www.bayharbor2010.org. Lisa M. Jensen is editor of Michigan BLUE.